It was too hot. I thought about going to Thailand after India, but I was too hot. My body needed a break. I wanted to be able to wear a t-shirt for 2 days in a row rather than have to change my sweaty tops a few times a day.
So after finding a cheap(ish) flight home from Bangalore via London (with a 3 month lay-over) and seeing on Facebook that my brother was on his way to Croatia, the plan was made.
Arriving at Heathrow was like arriving home. So familiar. I knew which over-priced sandwich to buy at Costa’s and where to catch the bus. I hopped on the cleanest, most high-tech coach I’ve ever seen and slept all the way to my friend‘s house in the type of village you’d imagine an English village to be.
Time enough for a catch up, hot shower (and brushing my teeth with tap water!), a chill in the cold Spring air, and then it was back to the bus in the middle of the night, off to another airport for another flight.
When I arrived in Split, Croatia, I ran into my brother on the street. We had pizza at a cafe in the sun and found out our hostel room had a disco ball.
I leave for my trip around pieces of the world (turns out it’s a big place) in less than two months, so I’ve starting thinking about what I’ll be bringing with me.
The hardest thing to decide on is shoes, mostly because they are bulky and they need to be right: if your feet are happy, chances are you’ll be ok. If your feet hurt, are cold, are hot, are bleeding, chances are your entire self will be miserable.
But what shoes do you take with you when you will be trudging around in mountains and temperate rain forests and still want to look relatively cool when biking in Portland and strutting around Los Angeles drinking a $19 smoothie?
I finally decided on light (weight, not colour) sneakers with ok treads and black canvas slip-ons for when my sneakers are soaking wet from being caught in the rain or falling into a creek. And my glow-in-the-dark flip flops for gross hostel showers, obviously.
But this means that I have to say goodbye to my dear, ol’faithful boots.
These boots were made for walking.
Dear Blundstones, goodbye. Goodbye laceless boots of perfection that I’ve worn every day for years and years. You’ve served me well. It will be hard to leave you behind.
We’ve travelled to lands far and wide together and attended many functions you were quite inappropriate for.
I bought you when I left Canada when I moved to the UK in 2005 and you’ve seen me through a lot since then. Here’s a little photo memorial to you, my steadfast friends.
This can be the soundtrack:
And here we go.
At the Toronto airport, taking pictures of vats of water as a distraction from the fact I was moving to Norwich, England, for a year. Wearing new Blundstones. August 2005.
California Beach in Norfolk, UK. Celebrating a sunny May Day 2006 in style.
Getting on a flight to Sandane, Norway.
Back in Canada, with Dan-Vy, celebrating our TAships on the mountain in Montreal.September 2007.
Chilling out during a visit to the Venice of the north, i.e. Birmingham.
Being a tourist during my first work trip, Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia.
In Boston for a Josh Ritter concert.
A cold stop-over after my trip to Kenya. With Brecht in Berlin in Berlin.
Even with translations, theatre festivals like the World Stage in Toronto, and theatre companies touring the globe, it’s sometimes possible to get a glimpse of the theatre that is happening around the world.
But theatre is a live event, and you have to actually be in a place, during a time, to experience it. And thing is, with the Internet, we know what shows we’re missing in the places we are not.
So it got me thinking: if I were somewhere else in the world on March 27th, which play would I attend to celebrate World Theatre Day?
Here are a few of my picks (turns out the world is big and there’s a lot going on). Maybe one of you could go check these out for me and report back?
I’m going to start with my top pick (because it’s a festival of international theatre, so I’m totally cheating) and the rest is in no particular order.
BOGOTÁ, Colombia Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro The Latin American Theatre Festival is like the best of the entire world of theatre crammed into one city. Theatre will literally be spilling out of traditional theatre spaces and into the streets. 33 countries are represented, but Romania is featured this year, which should mean there’ll be a lot of bold, theatrical stuff out there. Such as:
Lydia Wilson and Jack Gordon in ’Tis Pity She’s a Whore, at BAM Photo by Richard Termine
LONDON, England Roald Dahl’s Matilda the Musical by Dennis Kelly (book) and Tim Minchin (music+lyrics)
At the Cambridge Theatre
Because I adored the book so much as a child and that my doubts about this one were squashed by people who know what they’re talking about. It’s got swings! And it doesn’t seem to have washed out too much of Roald Dahl’s irreverence and joy.
The RSC Production of Roald Dahl's Matilda The Musical. Photo by Manuel Harlan
BERLIN, Germany Lulu by Frank Wedekind, directed by Robert Wilson.
At the Berliner Ensemble
Because I don’t know where would be better to see this twisted, gritty, expressionist play about the rise and fall of a femme fatale than at the theatre founded by Brecht in 1949. And with the legendary Robert Wilson at the helm and music by Lou Reed, I’d be there in a heartbeat (knowing full well I wouldn’t understand a word). Just look at it:
WELLINGTON, New Zealand Peninsula by Gary Henderson, directed by Jane Waddell
At Circa Theatre Because it’s about a kid who sleeps on a volcano.
Peninsula
SYDNEY, Australia Every Breath written and directed by Benedict Andrews
At Belvoir St Theatre
Because I’m obsessed with Benedict Andrews (check out the production photos on his website and you’ll see what I mean) and I’d be curious to see a show written by such an imaginative, innovative, courageous director.
Every Breath
NEW YORK, United States of America Once– the musical. By Glen Hansard and Markéta Irglová (music+lyrics), Enda Walsh (book), directed by John Tiffany
At the Bernard B. Jacobs Theatre
This is a Broadway musical based on one of the most subtly romantic, charmingly unpretentious films, so my initial reaction upon hearing this play existed was a terrified guffaw. I love the movie. But then I saw that the book was written by Enda Walsh. So it couldn’t be too bad. I’d go because it could be good.
Photo: Sara Krulwich/The New York Times
CALGARY, Canada Mary’s Wedding by Stephen Massicotte, directed by Bob White
At Martha Cohen Theatre, Alberta Theatre Projects
A beautiful script full of things Canadians love (horses, weddings, the First World War…), staged at one of Canada’s most exciting theatres (which I have never been to).
CAPE TOWN, South Africa Brothers in Blood by Mike van Graan, directed by Greg Homan
At Artscape
This one looks explosive, taking on as many taboo topics as will fit in one award-winning play: xenophobia, religious arrogance, the drug trade, fatherhood…
Brothers in Blood
MONTREAL, Canada Midsummer (une pièce et neuf chansons) by David Greig and Gordon McIntyre, translated by Olivier Choinière, directed by Philippe Lambert
At La Petite Licorne/La Manufacture
This “play and nine songs” was a hit at the Edinburgh Fringe a few years ago, and that it’s being staged at my favourite theatre in Montreal (which happens to have a long history of staging amazing translationsof new Scottish, Irish, and British plays), so it’s bound to be awesome.
Isabelle Blais and Pierre-Luc Brillant Photo credit: Suzane O'Neill
PARIS, France The Suit by Peter Brook and Marie-Helène Estienne, based on the story by Can Themba
At Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord
Because it’s a musical by Peter Brook.
TOKYO, Japan Condors “Hungry Like a Wolf” directed and choreographed by Ryohei Kondo
At the Setagaya Public Theatre A children’s show that combines dance, theatre, skits, and puppetry. I’m in, if a kids’ show looks like this:
photo by HARU
VIENNA, Austria Das blinde Geschehen by Botho Strauß, directed by Matthias Hartmann
At Burgtheater I can only get so far with Google translate, so I’m not too sure what this is about, but it’s really just the images of this play that make me want to jump on a plane and go to Austria.
Alexandra Henkel, Christiane von Poelnitz, Adina Vetter, Regina Fritsch, Hermann Scheidleder, and Sabine Haupt. Photo copyright: Reinhard Werner, Burgtheater
Photo copyright: Reinhard Werner, Burgtheater
HONG KONG, China Diving in the Moment directed by 張藝生
At the Hong Kong Repertory Theatre I’m not sure exactly what this play is, but it looks cool. [Stay tuned for more fascinating and informed insights like this one- subscribe to my blog.]
Diving in the Moment
SINGAPORE Krishnan’s Diary by Jacob Rajan
At the Singapore Repertory Theatre Apparently this play takes two of the most universal Indian clichés – the Taj Mahal and the corner store – and fuses them into a funny and touching love story. An Indian play about a couple who moves to New Zealand, staged in Singapore: perfect for World Theatre Day!
Krishnan's Diary
COPENHAGEN, Denmark Dybet by Jon Atli Jonasson
At Teater Får302
Because “The Deep” is an Icelandic play based on a true story of the sinking of a fishing boat being staged in Denmark. I have a think for Danish acting.
ROME, Italy I Masnadieri by Friedrich Schiller, directed by Gabriele Lavia Teatro di Roma Because why not see a Schiller play in Rome?
Photo: Il Rossetti
I haven’t even scratched the surface of all the exciting theatre happening in the world this week. What will you be doing to celebrate World Theatre Day on Tuesday?
On my last day in London, I spent the afternoon wandering around Greenwich, an area I’d never been to before, despite having heard that you sometimes spot foxes there. I didn’t see a fox.
It was market day, so I wandered around the stalls, ate an Ethiopian lunch and watched people. Then I spent far too long trying to decide what to bring home from Lush Designs, a tiny shop full of amazing lampshades, cushions, and clocks. I ended up with more tea towels than a wandered should rightly own. But they pack light, right? If it weren’t for a flight back to Canada, and the fact I have no house to put it in, I would have also bought this amazing lampshade:
Lampshade from Lush Designs
It was sunny, lovely, calm and bright. A beautiful day to meet a friend for tea, go to the candy shop, and visit the university grounds.
Listening to someone practice piano while watching someone read outside the music building in Greenwich
A beautiful day to get lost, and I proceeded to get lost. Greenwich station had somehow disappeared. I never did find it, but somehow ended up at Deptford Bridge station. If you can figure out how I missed Greenwich station, please let me know. You may refer to this map.
I got back to central London in time to get terribly lost there looking for the Young Vic without a map (luckily I had some foresight and had bought a weekly tube pass, so I could guiltlessly- though a bit humiliated- hop on the tube to go one stop and find my way from somewhere I knew).
Those extra-long escalators in the tube stations? Have you ever wondered what would happen if you fell down them? I have, many times. And it happened. Not to me, but right near me. What happens is this: there’s a scream. Everybody gasps. There’s frantic “shut it off! shut it off!” yelping. And then a woman gets up, smooths her dress, and, red-faced but totally (outwardly) fine, rushes past the “are you all right?” questions and onto the platform saying “that was quite a shock, wasn’t it?”
I fell down the Guy-Concordia escalators 4 Montreal winters ago. I still have a dent. I won’t say where.
But back to London. I finally found the Young Vic. I just had to follow the cool vibes and Michael Sheen’s face like bread crumbs.
If you've got Michael Sheen, use him
The Young Vic is a very very cool theatre
In the middle of writing this post, I Googled a bunch of review of this Hamlet, just to make sure my opinions were right and that all the critics agreed that this play absolutely rocked. But, um, looks like that wasn’t the consensus. What kind of critic says Michael Sheen’s Hamlet is “too Blair-like?” Boo to them.
Michael Sheen in Hamlet. Photo credit: Simon Annand
I thought it was the best ever. First off, I got a ticket upgrade (thanks, Graeme and Sharon!), and I was sitting next to this guy.
I heard things I’ve never heard in the play before. It was fresh and weird and modern and absolutely entrancing. And I’m sure it wasn’t just the pre-show wine or freaky way we had to enter the auditorium by going through the maze-like backstage/mental institution. For a better description of the whole experience, read this. The 3.5 hours flew by.
Ok, fine. I didn’t love that Horatio was played by a woman, no matter how good or inspiring an actor/director she may be, and not by Nicholas Farrell. He should always be played by Nicholas Farrell. Always. Eileen Walsh can play Rosencrantz whenever she likes, though.
I ended the night at a smashing pumpkin party (the party was smashing, the theme was pumpkins) and a midnight snack of egg and bacon sandwiches and gin and tonics.
Photo by Hannah. Sandwich by Andy.
I left before the sun rose to catch the bus to London Bridge and the train to the airport. David Nicholls’ One Day turned out to be the perfect book to read on the cramped plane back from London.
I’ve been back from London for weeks now, so I think it’s time I wrap up my wrap up of my short time there. Soon.
Rainbow spouting from St Paul's Cathedral. This happened. For real.
DAY 6 LONDON
If you didn’t know, there’s an astounding amount of theatre going on at all times in London. And it’s not even that hard to find. First stop: the Soho theatre. I love this theatre. I do. Their literary department sent me the most lovely, respectful, encouraging rejection letter I’ve ever received. And their stationery is damn cool. So I got a ticket to whatever show was playing that afternoon. The girl at the box office hadn’t seen the production but told me that there was real grass on stage. Sold!
The Soho theatre looks slightly depressing on this picture but actually looks pretty neat in real life
Real grass on stage is awesome. It looks nice and smells like spring. But it doesn’t necessarily make for dynamic, interesting, moving, or logical theatre. The grass was really cool, but the play made me angry and offended because of its lack of content and point. And sad at the potential in the staging, what with the good (but embarrassed) actors and real grass. I’m going to give this theatre another shot next time I’m in town because I can tell that this bad experience was a fluke. I can just tell. Because they’re so nice and actually read scripts you send them. The one they picked this time was a total miss, that’s all. (The play in question is no longer running- so you’re safe to go check out whatever it on now!)
Collaborative street art in London
Luckily, I had another show booked that night which I liked much, much, much better. After grabbing my backpack at my friend’s (I’d been switching couches, air mattresses, and beds all week), I proceeded to get quite lost in Dalston looking for the Arcola Theatre.
Something I learned in London: the A to Zmay be indispensable, but make sure you have a recent edition. Sometimes things like theatres move. And overground lines get built. I was lost for a long time, lugging my pack around dark alleys looking for the Arcola Theatre on Arcola Street. It moved last year. Check their website, Elise, geez. Thank goodness for friends with extra mobile phones who lend you said phone in case of stupid situations such as these. Thanks, Emily!
When I found the Arcola behind a construction site mere steps from where my adventure had begun, we were treated to an intense, beautifully staged production of Speechless, a play based on a real case of selectively mute twins.
A Shared Experience production, Speechless is co-written by Polly Teale and Linda Brogan. The reason I had to see it (at full price, bought in advance- that’s commitment) was that Polly Teale also wrote Mrs Rochester, a play I have only had the chance to read (mouth agape the whole time at its intelligence, risk, passion, anger, and skill). Through that play, I was introduced to Jean Rhys and her outstanding novel Wide Sargasso Sea– a novel you should read right this second. So I had to see what else I could learn, what journey I could be taken on.
Speechless felt a bit like a roller coaster ride. It was: laugh, cringe, weep, and feel extraordinarily uncomfortable while at the same time wanting to jump on stage and give the characters (all of them) a hug (and then maybe running away). The performances were spot-on. It’s the kind of piece I wish I could have been part of. As an audience member, I learned so much and made me want to know more about the twins, their lives, London, immigration, psychology, education, and the Royal Wedding. I can only imagine what it must have been like to sit in on those rehearsals.
After such an intense night and waiting for the bus in the rain, we went for plates of very white chips at Fishcotheque. As one does.
Up next: the final chapter of my week in London (promise)
Did you know that it’s now hip and trendy to play ping pong in bars? I hear they do it on Entourage. I’m not hip or trendy, but I’m not a liar either, and you know what? Playing ping pong in bars is pretty fun (I did it once for my friend Michelle’s birthday).
In London, I didn’t play ping pong in a bar. Instead, I went to pubs for poetry readings and plays. Does that make me cultured or just old?
DAY 4 LONDON
On my fourth day in London, I finally had the chance to hear Conor McPherson speak (ok fine, I admit I timed my visit to be able to attend this particular event). The National Theatre has a great series of Platforms where you get the chance to hear interviews, talks, and quizzes (!) about theatre, with theatre people (like Enda Walsh! Dominic Cooke! Ciarán Hinds! Simon Callow! Ralph Fiennes!… I really wish I lived in London sometimes).
The auditorium was packed for the interview with Conor McPherson, and hearing him speak about his interest in history, the paranormal, and Ireland was absolutely fascinating and the 45 minutes went by in a flash. When he was asked whether he himself believed in ghosts, he replied “I only have 5 senses,” but in a really eloquent way.
Then they announced he would be singing books and things. And when it was my turn to get my copy of The Veil signed, I turned into a blubbering idiot. I wasn’t my cool, hip, and trendy self. I was starstruck (which happens a lot, but I’m usually pretty good at hiding it… not this time!) and managed to say crap like: “You’re my favourite playwright” and “your career is so inspiring.” Stab me in the eye. He was lovely and didn’t tell me I was an idiot and to get out of his face. That was nice of him.
After that, I popped over to Clerkenwell, to the Betsey Trotwood pub, to see and hear a handful of extremely talented poets read. Feel free to play the following song as you read the rest:
I arrived downstairs- a grotto-like room under the pub- at the end of the first half, just in time for a cider break and a little catch up with a few friends I hadn’t seen in ages. I feel so lucky to have heard Anna Selby read some of her poems (you can see her reading some of her poems here) and to have caught up with Liz Adams (and finally got my copy of Green Dobermans!) They are poets who make me understand poetry.
Sandwiched by two beautiful poets
DAY 5 LONDON
Wednesday was the day that I discovered pub theatre. A bit more fringy than the National Theatre (in that I’d never even heard of it before- but that’s because I’m an ignorant tourist), the Hen & Chickens Pub Theatre is a 54-seat black box above a Victorian pub on Highbury corner, where the Mighty Boosh started.
Hen and Chickens. I didn't take this picture. I should take more pictures.
What I saw was a moving, funny, surprising production of Sense, a play by German playwright Anja Hilling, directed by Melanie Spencer, and featuring a strong, well-cast group of young actors (including Joseph Wilde, a fantastic actor/writer you should probably hire for your next project).
Structured as a series of interlinked stories, each scene of Sense explores one of our 5 senses through dialogues between teenagers about love, friendship, youth and fear. And because these are teenagers in Berlin, they are somehow cooler and more interesting than any of us, even at their most awkward, angry, disappointed, or nerdy.
Charlotte Spencer and Sophie Streer in Sense. Photo by Steven Kelly
I don’t know why I was surprised at the exceptional talent on stage and professionalism of the production, but I was a bit. Not really fair of me. But as soon as it started, I knew my preconceptions were totally off. Well-observed, dark, and funny writing pulled off in a sharply directed, beautifully designed, cohesive production. And then downstairs for a pint!
around the world in 80 plays 